End of the Truckee River, some odd miles north of Reno, some odd miles south of Black Rock desert, this is where Lake Tahoe ends up. I was out here along one of the more remote northern stretches of a lake that’s pretty remote to begin with. At one time, the Southern Pacific Railroad passed through here – I was following the old route. What tourists there may be (fishermen mostly) are kept well south of this point.
Truckee was a chief of the northern Paiutes (aka “Chief Winnemucca”) – he guided a party of travellers from the headwaters of the Humboldt River to Donner Pass and they named the Truckee River for him. The Humboldt River became the primary trail to Sacramento; today I-80 follows its course from its beginning at Wells, Nevada to the Humboldt Sink just west of Lovelock. From here, travellers had a choice of deserts to cross: to the Carson Sink and Carson River through the 40-Mile Desert, eventually crossing the Sierra south of Lake Tahoe – now US50; or across an unnamed stretch to the Truckee River near today’s Wadsworth, Nevada and on to Donner Pass on the north side of Lake Tahoe. Either trail ran about 40 miles with no water. In 1850, almost 1000 graves were counted along the 40-Mile Desert stretch. I-80 follows the Truckee River route.
But I was speaking of Pyramid Lake … north of Wadsworth. The Northern Paiute name of Pyramid Lake is Kooyooe Panunadu or Kooyooe Pa’a Panunadu.
The lake is the largest remnant and once deepest part of Lake Lahontan, an ancient inland sea that covered most of northern Nevada. Pyramid Lake is 10% the size of Salt Lake but 25% larger in volume.
Pyramid Lake lies entirely within the Paiute Indian Reservation. This photo was taken from the northwest side of the lake, apparently now closed to the public due to “desecration of sacred sites”. The entire lake is considered sacred … but portions of it are open to the public and the lake is renowned for its (baitless, barbless) fishing of Lahanton cutthroat trout – the record fish being over 40 pounds. 20 pound fish are considered normal. Perch are also common … I’m rather found of fresh water perch myself. A permit is required for almost all activities at the lake and I’m sure that now, like then, if you’re not a tribal member, you do not want to be caught breaking any laws – speeding especially.
There are hot springs along the shore – I suspect these may be the sacred sites – but there’s not much out here – or wasn’t when I took this photo 40 years ago except an old ranch in ruins.
There was a “war” – known as the Pyramid Lake War – fought south of the lake in 1860. Two battles were fought in 1860; the Paiutes “won” the first. The Paiutes lost the second which was fought on the same location as the first. The site is on the reservation and appears as it did in 1860. These battles caused the only halt in service of the Pony Express.
There is a state historical marker at the site of the main fighting (one source suggest the sign has been removed. The Google Street view is from 2005 so it may not be reliable).
